{"id":1135,"date":"2019-06-20T09:11:26","date_gmt":"2019-06-20T01:11:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/asiadivingvacation.com\/blog\/?p=1135"},"modified":"2022-07-10T22:20:49","modified_gmt":"2022-07-10T14:20:49","slug":"exploring-derawan-islands","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/asiadivingvacation.com\/blog\/exploring-derawan-islands","title":{"rendered":"Exploring the Beautiful Derawan Islands Off East Kalimantan"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The Derawan Archipelago, a group of mostly uninhabited islands off the east coast of Borneo in the Celebes Sea, is something that is now so rare and elusive in Southeast Asia \u2013 a world-class diving destination that is still largely unknown.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A tropical paradise of palm-fringed, white-sand beaches\nabove the waves and playground for divers below, these islands have somehow\nmanaged to pass under most people\u2019s radar. In a region where you are spoiled\nfor choice by the wealth of renowned dive sites, the Derawan Islands offer you\none of the last remaining opportunities to dive somewhere truly spectacular\nbefore the rest of the world begins to take notice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kalimantan and the Derawan Islands<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The island of Borneo is shared between the Malaysian states\nof Sarawak and Sabah, the tiny sultanate of Brunei and Kalimantan, the southern\nthree-quarters of the island that is part of Indonesia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While Borneo, the world\u2019s third largest island, is hard to\nmiss on a map, Kalimantan is still largely unknown to international tourism \u2013 for\nthe most part, due to the difficulties of travelling there. Much of the\ninterior is covered by dense jungles full of exotic wildlife and punctuated by\nimpassable mountain ranges. Transportation infrastructure can be rudimentary,\nand often the only way of travelling is along rivers by boat. Kalimantan can be\ntime-consuming and expensive to explore, putting it off-limits to all but the\nmost intrepid of adventurers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is also the reason the Derawan Islands have remained a secret\nfor so long; despite lying only around 200km south of Malaysia\u2019s near-legendary\nSipadan, the Derawan Islands receive only a handful of dedicated dive\nenthusiasts annually compared to the far more famous site a little further\nnorth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An Important Biodiversity Hotspot<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Located off the coast of East Kalimantan, the archipelago consists of 31 small islands, as well as numerous islets and reefs. The islands lie on the western fringe of the Coral Triangle, an expanse of ocean recognised as having the highest level of marine biodiversity in the world. The Derawan Archipelago, and particularly the island of Maratua, is said to be the world\u2019s third most important biodiversity hotspot, with only Raja Ampat and the Solomon Islands providing a home to more species.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Bagang,
Bagang, a floating anchovy fishing platform in the Celebes Sea, halfway between East Kalimantan and Maratua Island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The waters around these islands teem with myriad species of\nfish and coral along with dolphins, whales and even dugongs. 15,000 turtles are\nthought to visit the islands annually, mostly green turtles but also closely\nrelated hawksbills. The islands are a significant nesting area for green\nturtles, and at certain times of the year, females can be observed hauling\nthemselves onto the beaches to lay their eggs; around two months later, the\nhatchlings can be seen scurrying back down to the surf in their hundreds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The main islands of interest to divers are Maratua, Kakaban\nand Sangalaki. The archipelago offers a total of around 30 recognised dive\nsites, mostly around these three islands, and some of them are truly\nworld-class. However, even for those who never venture beneath the waves, the\nslow pace of life and the idyllic setting will still make for a memorable trip.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Human and Non-human Residents<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The islands are home to monitor lizards and rare coconut\ncrabs, and some have populations of black macaques. Two of the islands also\noffer the chance to witness a rare evolutionary curiosity \u2013 both Kakaban and\nMaratua encompass brackish lakes full of stingless jellyfish that have become completely\nharmless to humans.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The villages on Derawan and Maratua, the only permanently inhabited islands, have changed little for generations. The population consists mainly of local Bajau people, also known as Sea Gypsies, as well as some Bugis, descendants of an ethnic group now centred around Makassar in South Sulawesi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Main
Main street of Teluk Harapan village. This village is also known as Bohe Bukut in the local Bugis dialect. The yellow building on the left is a school.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sea Gypsies are found throughout Indonesia and the\nPhilippines. They traditionally spend much of their lives at sea and have\ndeveloped the ability to hold their breath underwater for up to ten minutes or\nlonger. It is now known that this ability is not learned but has evolved over\nthe last 1,000 years in much the same way that Sherpas have become adapted to\nliving in the high altitudes of the Himalayas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Derawan Island<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Derawan, the diminutive island for which the rest of the\narchipelago is named, is one of the first you reach after leaving the mainland.\nIt is one of only two islands with a permanent settlement and boasts several losmen<\/em>,\ntraditional Indonesian guesthouses, as well as a smattering of warung<\/em>,\ninexpensive local-style restaurants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are few motorbikes \u2013 you can walk around the island in\nless than an hour \u2013 and there is no electricity after dark. It\u2019s a place for\nkicking back, abandoning yourself to the charms of village life, relaxing on\nthe gorgeous beaches and watching the turtles playing just beyond the surf in\nthe turquoise sea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Diving Around Derawan<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Although there are a handful of dive sites around Derawan\nthat are interesting, the best diving is to be found off some of the other\nislands in the archipelago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Maratua Island<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The much larger horseshoe shaped Maratua is home to four villages. The villages of Teluk Harapan and Payung-payung are tourist and backpacker friendly, although it lacks a little of the atmosphere and authenticity of the village on Derawan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Teluk
Teluk Harapan jetty, Maratua Island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There are known to be at least 13 caves on the island \u2013\nalthough it is thought that many more still await discovery and exploration. Also\nhidden on the island is Danau Haji Buang (Danau <\/em>is Indonesian for \u2018lake\u2019).\nThis tiny, lesser-known jellyfish lake is much more difficult to access than\nthe famous one on neighbouring Kakaban.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Diving Around Maratua<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The diving around this island is one of the reasons people make such an effort to reach the archipelago. Maratua<\/a> is known as the \u2018Turtle Capital of Indonesia\u2019, a moniker it has acquired largely thanks to a dive site called Turtle Traffic. Hundreds of these enigmatic sea reptiles frequent the spot, and you are practically guaranteed to see so many you will quickly give up counting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Green
Green turtle, Maratua Island. \u00a9 Pedro Vieyra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Perhaps the most famous site in the Derawan Islands is also found off Maratua. Simply called The Channel, the name is not particularly inspiring \u2013 but its alternative name, Big Fish Country, gives you more of a hint as to what you might see.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Trevallies,
Trevallies, The Channel. \u00a9 Patrick Chong<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As the tide rises, the water is forced through the eponymous channel, creating the kind of strong currents pelagic fish love. You can expect to see barracuda, potatohead groupers, reef sharks and many more playing and hunting in the rushing water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Chevron
Chevron Barracudas, The Channel. \u00a9 Patrick Chong<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kakaban Island<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Located next to Maratua and variously described as being shaped like a teardrop, the Big Dipper constellation or the number nine, Kakaban is best known for its large lake of brackish water filled with stingless jellyfish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Kakaban
Kakaban Island at a distance, seen from the west coast of Maratua Island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Long ago, geological pressure elevated the lagoon, cutting\nit off from the sea. Since the jellyfish trapped there no longer had any\nnatural predators, they had no more need for defence \u2013 and so over thousands of\nyears, they gradually lost their stings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are four species of jellyfish in the lake, each with\nan interesting evolutionary story. For example, one of them is descended from\nthe box jellyfish, one of the deadliest species in the sea \u2013 but the ones in\nthe lake are now completely harmless. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Kakaban
Kakaban lake jetty.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Another, the Cassiopeia jellyfish, swims upside down in order to expose the algae on its tentacles to sunlight. This promotes algal growth, providing the jellyfish with a constant supply of food.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The lake is also home to many other species, including fish, sea cucumbers, sponges and snakes and is considered the most biodiverse brackish lake in the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Spotted
Spotted jellyfish, Kakaban Lake. \u00a9 Patrick Chong<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Diving Off Kakaban<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

One of the most famous dive sites around Kakaban<\/a> is Barracuda Point, another site that often features strong currents. Unsurprisingly, given the name, it is known for the large numbers of barracudas that these currents draw in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another highly regarded site is The Wall, a wall dive where\nyou can see a multitude of colourful reef fish along with sea fans and many\nspecies of hard and soft coral.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sangalaki Island<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The last of the four most famous islands in the archipelago\nis Sangalaki, an island known for two things: turtles and mantas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sangalaki<\/a> is the largest known nesting site in the Celebes Sea for endangered green turtles, and the island has been an Island Nature Tourist Park since 1982. The only inhabitants of the island are turtle conservationists and researchers \u2013 there was once a dive resort on the island, but it closed in 2009 and there are no plans to reopen it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Diving Around Sangalaki<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Below the waves, the stars of the show are not the turtles but the mantas that are drawn to the island in great numbers. These majestic, graceful giants can be observed all year round, but the best time to see them is at the start of the rainy season in November and December. They also tend to arrive in the greatest numbers at the time of the new moon. The most famous site for seeing mantas is the aptly named Manta Parade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Manta
Manta ray, Sangalaki Island. \u00a9 Pedro Vieyra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

How the Islands Got Their Names<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

As is often the case, the origins of the islands\u2019 names have\nbeen lost in time, but there are several local legends that may shed some light\non the subject.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

According to one story, long ago, the island of Maratua was\ninhabited by a half-human, half-devil creature named Kokok that sometimes\nkidnapped local women and carried them off. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

To rid themselves of this fearful menace, the villagers came\nup with a plan to cook the local tuba root into a poisonous liquid that looked like\nmilk. Having prepared the potion, the villagers left it as an offering outside Kabok\nCave where the demon lived \u2013 and when Kokok discovered the offering, he drank\nit and died.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018Maratua\u2019 is said to be a corruption of the Indonesian\nexpression masak tuba<\/em>, meaning \u2018cook tuba root\u2019. To this day, islanders\nstill leave offerings outside Kabok Cave for three days at times of accident or\nmisfortune.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another version holds that Kokok were ghosts that haunted\nthe island. The tuba root was boiled up to produce the white liquid and was\ngiven to these ghosts at a feast, after which they disappeared. The process of\nboiling the root is called mellatua <\/em>in a local dialect, and this is\nanother possible source for the name.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A different story tells of a wedding party that died in a\nshipwreck while travelling in the area, and each person who drowned was turned\ninto an island. A virgin on the boat became Derawan, the mother became Semama,\nthe older brother became Kakaban, the groom became Sangalaki and the bride\nbecame Maratua. In Indonesian, perawan<\/em> means \u2018virgin\u2019, and the\nIndonesian words for the other family members also sound similar to the names\nof the islands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A final theory suggests that the name of Kakaban comes from\na local word for \u2018hug\u2019 since the island \u2018hugs\u2019 the brackish lake in the lagoon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What to Do on Dry Days<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

For such small islands, there is plenty on offer to occupy\nany days when you are not diving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of course, one of the most popular trips is to Kakaban to swim with the harmless jellyfish in the lake, but you can also try to catch sight of spinner dolphins early in the morning around Maratua Island.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Mother
Mother and pup spinner dolphins. \u00a9 Patrick Chong<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The village on Derawan is worth a visit and is one of the\nmost authentic. On Maratua, Payung-payung village is the most accessible and is\nso named for a stone there shaped like an umbrella (payung <\/em>means\n\u2018umbrella\u2019 in Indonesian). The other three villages can be visited too, and\nMaratua also hides a number of caves that can be explored by the more\nadventurous of spirit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back on the mainland in Berau, there is a palace that has been converted into a museum to showcase local history and is worth a look on the way to or from the islands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Sambaliung
Sambaliung Palace, Berau, has been converted into a museum. The sultanate of Berau has a recorded history dating back to the 1400s.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Where are They and How Do You Get There?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Reaching the Derawan Islands is becoming easier, but it\nstill requires a little planning, determination and several changes of\ntransport, however you decide to do it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Islands belong to the Berau regency in East Kalimantan state, and the best access point is the main town in Berau, Tanjung Redeb. From there, you can take a speedboat directly to the islands \u2013 which can be expensive \u2013 or you can continue downriver to Tanjung Batu, from where boats to the islands are cheaper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To reach Tanjung Redeb, the easiest way is to fly to the recently expanded Kalimarau Airport \u2013 there are direct flights from Jakarta, but it may be simpler to fly to nearby Balikpapan and transfer to Tanjung Redeb from there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another possibility is to fly to Balikpapan or Samarinda and\ncontinue by road, but this would involve a gruelling bus journey of up to 24\nhours and is hardly recommended.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is also possible to reach the islands by boat directly\nfrom the island of Tarakan near the Malaysian border.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A small airport has recently been completed on Maratua, but flights are inconsistent and are usually only available for locals and not a practical way to reach the islands for most people.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since the transport situation often changes, the best advice\nis to contact us for the most up-to-date information and advice on reaching the\nislands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When is the Best Time to Go<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

It is possible to dive year-round at the Derawan Islands, but the best time to go is during the dry season, from March to October. However, for the best chance of seeing mantas, the best time of year is the beginning of the rainy season around November or December.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Travel Tips<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The islands are remote and rely on the mainland for deliveries. There are no money changers, so you need to make sure you arrive with enough cash for your stay. There are places to eat, but you may find choices limited, but meals are provided by the dive resorts you stay at.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Which Dive Resorts to Stay At?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Ready to explore the best of Derawan Islands? Here are dive resorts we recommend to explore this amazing area:<\/p>\n\n\n\n